Desk of Dr. Lancer

Volume III: Your Retinoid Is Only Part of the Story

The formula matters. So does the skin receiving it.

Last time, I wrote about how the choices we make throughout the day can reveal themselves on the complexion. What we eat, how we sleep, and how consistently we care for ourselves all contribute to the environment in which skin functions.

The same thinking applies to the products we use.

A treatment encounters skin that has already been influenced by everything that came before it. How it was cleansed. How well it is hydrated. Whether it feels comfortable or has become dry and irritated.

Retinoids are a useful example. We hear a great deal about which retinoid to choose and what percentage to look for. Those questions matter. But they only tell part of the story.

I also want to understand the routine around it.

Look Beyond the Ingredient

Retinol belongs to a broader family of ingredients called retinoids. Different members of that family behave differently, and the finished formula influences the experience as well.

The concentration is one consideration. So are the ingredient’s stability, the way it is delivered, and the other ingredients formulated alongside it.

Two products containing a retinoid may offer very different experiences. Looking at one ingredient on the label will not tell you everything you need to know.

Then there is the condition of your skin.

Even a thoughtfully formulated treatment needs to be introduced with an understanding of the complexion receiving it. Skin that is already dry or uncomfortable may need a different approach from skin that is well hydrated and accustomed to treatment.

Why I Think in Systems

When I developed The Method, I organized it around a sequence: Polish. Cleanse. Nourish.

Each step has a purpose, and each contributes to the routine as a whole. Polish helps refine surface buildup. Cleanse removes impurities. Nourish replenishes hydration and supports the skin barrier.

That relationship is central to what I call Interlocking Chemistry: considering how the steps work together and how each supports what follows.

Within that system, a retinoid provides targeted treatment to help improve the appearance of uneven tone, rough texture, and fine lines. Cleanse removes impurities, while Nourish replenishes hydration and supports the skin barrier, helping make continued retinoid use more manageable. That is how the treatment fits into Interlocking Chemistry: each step has a distinct role in the routine as a whole.

It also means knowing when to adjust. Exfoliation should suit the condition of your skin, particularly when you are introducing a retinoid. Adding more exfoliation to skin that is already peeling or irritated can increase discomfort.

An intelligent routine responds to the skin it encounters.

Comfort Helps You Stay Consistent

Retinoids can help improve the appearance of uneven tone, rough texture, and fine lines. But they can also cause dryness and irritation, especially as skin adjusts.

When a routine becomes uncomfortable, it becomes harder to maintain.

That is why moisturizing deserves a meaningful place alongside treatment. Supporting hydration and the skin barrier can help make continued use more manageable.

Starting gradually and following the directions for your particular product also matter. The goal is a routine you can sustain, with adjustments when your skin needs them.

Daily sun protection belongs in that routine, too. Supporting renewal and protecting the complexion from ongoing UV exposure are complementary responsibilities.

Every Step Should Have a Reason

There is a temptation in skincare to keep adding: another active, a higher concentration, one more treatment.

I would rather see you understand the purpose of what you are already using.

What is preparing your skin? What is addressing your concerns? What is maintaining hydration and comfort? What is protecting the progress you are working toward?

These are the questions that turn a collection of products into a considered routine.

A retinoid helps improve the appearance of uneven tone, rough texture, and fine lines. The surrounding hydration and barrier support help make consistent use of that treatment more manageable – and more functionally effective.

That is the thinking behind Interlocking Chemistry, and the principle I want you to remember: give every step a purpose, and consider how those steps work together.